Chemical peels are widely used in aesthetic and dermatology practice to improve texture, tone, pigmentation, acne, and signs of ageing. While most modern peel solutions are laboratory-refined for safety and consistency, many peeling acids are inspired by — or originally derived from — natural botanical, fruit, or plant-based sources.
Understanding what each peel acid is made from helps practitioners explain treatment choices to clients and reinforces the science behind why different acids behave differently on the skin.
Below is an overview of the most common peeling acids and their original sources.
Glycolic Acid — Derived From Sugar Cane
Chemical family: Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Glycolic acid was originally obtained from sugar cane and is one of the most researched peel acids in clinical aesthetics. Today it is typically synthetically produced to ensure purity and controlled pH.
Its sugar origin explains why it:
• has a very small molecular size
• penetrates deeper than most AHAs
• effectively breaks down corneocyte bonds
• promotes exfoliation and dermal stimulation
It is widely used in peels targeting:
• photo-ageing
• dull, uneven skin tone
• fine lines and texture concerns
Lactic Acid — Derived From Milk & Fermented Sugars
Chemical family: Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Historically, lactic acid was associated with soured milk, famously used in ancient skincare rituals. Modern lactic acid is generally produced from fermented plant sugars.
Because of its structure, lactic acid:
• penetrates more slowly than glycolic acid
• has hydrating and humectant properties
• supports the skin barrier
This makes it suitable for:
• dry or dehydrated skin
• first-time peel clients
• mildly sensitive skin types
Mandelic Acid — Derived From Bitter Almonds
Chemical family: Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Mandelic acid was originally derived from bitter almonds. It has one of the largest molecular structures among AHAs, which means it absorbs more gradually into the skin.
This slower penetration results in:
• gentler resurfacing
• reduced irritation risk
• antibacterial activity beneficial for mild acne
It is often preferred for:
• reactive or sensitive skin
• darker Fitzpatrick skin types
• pigmentation and uneven tone
Citric Acid — Derived From Citrus Fruits
Chemical family: Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
Citric acid occurs naturally in:
• lemons
• oranges
• limes
• other citrus fruit
In peeling formulations, it is usually used in combination systems to:
• brighten the complexion
• support antioxidant activity
• enhance overall exfoliation intensity
It is more commonly found in superficial peels and blended peel systems.
Salicylic Acid — Derived From Willow Bark
Chemical family: Beta-Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
Salicylic acid originates from willow bark and has long been associated with anti-inflammatory and medicinal properties. Modern salicylic acid used in peels is refined synthetically for consistency and control.
Its oil-soluble structure allows it to:
• dissolve sebum within follicles
• decongest pores
• reduce comedones and breakouts
It is ideal for:
• oily and acne-prone skin
• congested or seborrhoeic conditions
• enlarged or clogged pores
TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid) — Laboratory Synthesised
Chemical family: Halogenated acetic acid
Unlike fruit-derived AHAs and plant-derived BHAs, TCA is not sourced from natural ingredients. It is a laboratory-created compound designed for controlled protein coagulation within the epidermis and upper dermis.
Its purpose-built design allows practitioners to achieve:
• medium-depth peeling
• collagen remodelling
• targeted photodamage correction
Because of its depth and regenerative impact, TCA peels require:
• appropriate training
• strict patient selection
• structured aftercare and UV protection
Jessner’s Solution — A Blended, Formulated Peel
Traditional Jessner’s Peel is not derived from a single ingredient but is a formulated blend typically containing:
• lactic acid
• salicylic acid
• resorcinol
Each component contributes to:
• exfoliation of the epidermis
• pore clearance
• pigment lightening
• textural resurfacing
It is sometimes layered beneath TCA to enhance penetration and depth.
